An Artsy Touch

Once all the plants were in, the garden still needed something.  First thought: a grouping of native lichen-covered boulders.  Second thought:  how the heck would my 78-year-old Dad and I pull off a boulder placing project (I am quite the pencil-neck).   Then: DOH!  How about some art?  I’ve been telling people I’m an artist; here was a chance to make good on that claim.

What the garden needed was something vertical and fairly big to add visual weight and to provide a link between the large existing maple tree and the low growing grasses and perennials that we just planted.  A sculpture, weather proof, subtle to respect my Dad’s complete lack of ostentation.  And something that would be specific to this particular garden.

A Sculpture to Reflect My Father's Personality

To generate ideas, I spent a bit of time brainstorming and writing with my left (non-dominant) hand.  In her inspiring book, Visioning, Lucia Capacchione discusses how this technique can greatly improve access your right brain and subconscious.   I’ve been using it for several years for everything from garden design to portrait paintings and am always amazed at the unexpectedly creative results.

For this project, I wanted to develop a concept that would reflect my father’s love of sailboarding.  Yes, my Dad - who hosts two prosthetic knees – is a big-time windsurfer.  My right brain took the idea of a sail-inspired wire sculpture and ran with it.

Sail On, a wire sculpture reflecting my father's passion for windsurfing and aviation

The final sculpture has the basic form of a sail, sort of, with a mast and metal strips that suggests the ribs of the sail.  My right brain thought I should play with the shape to suggest a wing with ‘feathers’ of bent wire to reflect my Dad’s career as a pilot as well as to refer to a seafaring bird, the Royal Tern, that visits my dad’s favorite windsurfing mecca, Bonnaire.  And, add abstracted wave patterns to reinforce the windsurf element.  The whole thing is made out of twisted metal, much of it salvaged, with no welds. The wire and rebar had to be thin enough for me to hand bend so the piece has a very light, open appearance that, with its gentle rust color, does not overpower the garden in spite of its 7′ height.

Posted in New Projects | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

Next Up: Irrigation

Drip emitters for this plant are punched directly into the 3/4" main tubing

Once the plants were in the ground, we still had some work to do.  My goal is to provide a lush garden that requires very little maintenance.  And, with as many plants as we added, that means adding automatic irrigation and mulch.

My Dad already had three spray irrigation zones in the front yard that he had used to water his former lawn.  We kept one spray zone to water some of the existing plants that we left in place.  The other zones we converted into two drip irrigation zones, one for the shade tolerant plants that went in the shadow of an existing maple tree and one for the sun-loving super drought tolerant plants.

The in-line emitter method with 1/4" tubing with 1/2 gph emitters every 6".

We ran 3/4″ Hardy Blue line piping in a closed loop from each valve then added drip emitters at each plant.  We used two different methods to put the emitters at each plant. Method A:  Punch the 1 gallon per hour (GPH) drip emitter directly into the 1/2″ drip main tubing.  We did this wherever the main was located right up next to a plant.  Method B:  Where plants were located away from the main tubing, we ran 1/4″ spaghetti tubing from the main to the plant, then connected 2′ of  in-line emitter tubing that has 1/2 gph emitters at 6″ o.c. spacing  (4 emitters per plant).  The loose end of the tube gets a ‘goof plug.’  Both methods work well; you can pick either one or combine them in a single zone.

Once all of the plants had irrigation to them, we tested the system to make sure everything actually worked as planned.  It did!  A 4″ layer of mulch over the landscape fabric and irrigation tubing finished up the job.

We ran both of the drip zones for a half hour that day.  Then, we ran both zones every three to four days for the next couple of weeks.  Because we did a major no-no, planting in the summer, we had to watch the plants closely and add more water than we would have if we’d have planted a month or two later.

When temperatures shot up to the high nineties and then topped 100 for a couple of days, some of the new plants were stressed.  I pruned back those that looked crispy and they are all now showing healthy new growth.  These guys are tough.

Now, a month after planting, we are

Foothill Penstemon two weeks after planting, in full bloom and growing.

running the shade zone every 4 to 5 days and the sun zone once a week, both for 1/2 hour.  Total water usage for the two zones is less than 100 gallons per week.  Compare that to the 625 gallons per week that my Dad had to put on the former lawn.  And, next summer, when the plants are fully established with nice big root systems, we’ll be watering the sun zone only once or twice a month and the shade zones about once a week.  Amazing!

Posted in New Projects | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

After Lawn Death Comes Garden Rebirth

Fortunately, my Dad didn’t show signs of trauma after joining in the murder of his lawn.  We jumped right in to stage two, site prep and planting.

The neighbors did not get much of an aesthetic break; once we cleared away the plastic sheeting used to Solarize the lawn (and, unfortunately, had to throw it in the trash since the garbage company here does not accept it for recycle), we immediately rolled out landscape fabric.  The formerly green yard was now a sea of matte black.

Landscape Fabric will greatly reduce weeds and is an essential part of this low maintenance garden

I have to say, stage two was a lot harder than stage one.  Especially for my noble brother, Tom, who took a break from whitewater kayaking to dig all 80 of the plant holes.   I tried to dampen my feelings of guilt by telling myself that, at least, we had small plants (1 gallon size) and therefore small holes to dig.  But, the dead sod was a beast to cut through.  Tom says: get a sharp, strong shovel for the project.

The weather gave us a break with a bit of overcast and an unseasonably cool high of 72 degrees.  We were able to get all of the plants in the ground in one long day.  Proof of the caliber of our neighborhood came first in the form of the loan of a digging bar when an observant neighbor saw Tom fighting some burly tree roots and then, late in the day, with an offer of homemade enchiladas from another kind soul.  Chico has a big heart.

Here’s step by step description of how we completed the site prep and planting phase.

Materials:

Landscape fabric: use a high quality weed fabric that allows air and water to penetrate. Don’t use plastic sheeting.  10′ width goes down much faster than 3′ width.

Landscape fabric pins (U-shaped metal stakes) to tack down the landscape fabric and drip tubing.

Utility knife and/or utility shears to cut fabric

Sturdy digging shovel with a sharp cutting edge

Gardening gloves if you value your fingers and nails

Plants: For native plants, I highly recommend Floral Native Nursery. Bring your Front Yard Evolution plant list to them and receive one free plant for each $100 that you spend with them. For edible plants, try Hodges Nursey in Dayton.

Mychorrizal tablets. These contain beneficial soil organizisms essential to native plant development that are often depleted in cultivated garden soil. Use two per one-gallon container plant.

Process

1. Roll out weed fabric in rows, starting with the outside perimeter just as you did for Solarizing. Use trench dirt to pin down the outside edge.  At seams, overlap by about 6″ – there will probably be lines on the fabric to use for aligning the rows. Use fabric pins through both layers about every 10′.

2. Arrange your plants on top of the weed fabric according to the Front Yard Evolution Plan. It helps to start with the ‘foundation plants,’ like trees and shrubs. Get them where you want them then add in the perennials and groundcovers.

3. Cut an X in the weed fabric right beneath each plant. Each line in the X should be about 18″ long.

4. For each plant, dig a hole that is slightly shallower than the depth of the dirt in the plant container and about twice as wide as the plant container.  Throw away the clump of dead sod that comes out of the hole.  Leave the sod that is in unplanted areas in place.  It will eventually decompose.

5. Gently remove the plant from its container. ‘Tickle’ the side of the plant with your fingers to loosen the dirt and free up some of the roots. If the roots are circling the bottom of the container, gently pull them loose.

6. Place the plant in the hole. Make sure that the crown of the plant’s rootball is slightly higher (about 1″) than the surrounding dirt. If it’s not, add dirt to the bottom of the hole and step on it to compact. Native plants, especially, HATE to have their crowns below grade.

7. Backfill the hole about half way, toss two michorrizal tablets into the hole, then finish backfilling. Break up large clods before putting them in the hole.

8. Water the plant well.

Posted in New Projects | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

The Front Yard Evolution Begins

A Resource Devouring Lawn

My mission to convert lawns in Chico into native and edible gardens began with a death.  My kind and gentle father agreed to let me murder his front lawn.  This wasn’t a limping, half-dead lawn, either.  He’d been carefully mowing, fertilizing, and watering it into a state of lush greeness for the past nine years.  In fact, that was the only time he ever spent in his front yard.  And, being the supportive guy that he is, he not only approved of the proposed killing but acted as my accomplice.

Solarizing with Clear Plastic

We started Solarizing in late July.  Solarizing is a simple, non-toxic method for killing lawns that UC Davis has researched extensively, ceamador.ucdavis.edu/files/942.pdf.  We thoroughly soaked his lawn with water (I mean, really soaked it, for hours) then rolled 4 mil clear plastic to completely cover it.  We used 1×4 boards and stones that my Dad already had to securely fasten the plastic.  Total time: less than 2 hours.

Six weeks later, we removed the plastic.  Ta da!  Nothing but dead lawn except for a couple of small spots in the shadow of the large maple that grows in the center of the lawn.  I used a hoe to peel these out, roots and all.  We left the remains of the former lawn where they lay so they can compost into humus.

We were ready to start Phase 2: planting.

Here’s a step by step description of our Solarizing process.

The Lawn is Dead

Materials:

1. Widest clear plastic sheeting you can find – least 10′ wide, clear plastic. Wider is better although more cumbersome to use. You can use one to four mil thickness plastic for solarizing. We used 4 mil thickness because we were concerned that wind might tear a thinner plastic.  However, thinner plastic does allow more heat to get to the soil.  Painting stores and hardware stores carry all types. It’s sold in rolls.

2. Fastening materials: You can either pin the plastic down (fabric pins – metal U-shaped stakes.  They are sold at hardware stores and nurseries), weight it down (1×4 boards, stones with at least 4″ diameter, or something similar), or use clear plastic packing tape (the strong, wide kind) to hold the plastic sheets together at the seams.   If you use fabric pins, I’d recommend adding a piece of tape over each pin to prevent tearing and air leaks.

3. Hammer, if you are using fabric pins.

4. Utility knife to cut the plastic.

5. Marking spray paint. This is the kind that sprays upside-down.

6. Two people (three is even better) on ‘plastic day’

Process:

Day One: Preparing your lawn

1. ‘Scalp’ your lawn with mower set at lowest setting.

2. Mark the location of your irrigation heads with the spray paint. Spray the grass around the head, not the head. If your irrigation heads are hard to find, turn them on briefly so you can spot them.

3. Using a trenching machine, cultivator, or a shovel, dig a trench 4″ deep by about a foot wide around the perimeter of the area to be solarized. Pile the dirt along the trench outside of the area that will be solarized. Watch out for your irrigation heads!

4. Water your lawn very thoroughly. This may take a whole day or more if you don’t have automatic sprinklers; you need to soak it deeply with about 12″ depth of water. Put several cans on your lawn to keep track of how much water you are putting down.

Day Two: Plastic Day

5. Put plastic down: Start at the outside perimeter, roll plastic out one row at a time. Use dirt stockpiled from your trench to anchor the outside edge of plastic. At seams, overlap by 6-12″ and use fasteners to hold down both layers.   Success depends on a snug fit and tight seal!

6. Wait 4-6 weeks. It will take longer if the weather is not consistently hot (above 80 degrees) during the day or if there is shade cast onto the area.

7. Remove plastic. Dump trench soil onto the interior of the dead lawn so that you retain your trench. The trench will help prevent mulch from spilling from your planting beds. If any patches of lawn show signs of life, use a hoe to peel back and remove the sod.  As for the dead lawn; just leave it in place.  Eventually it will turn into dirt.

Posted in New Projects | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Welcome to My Garden

Although Eve’s Garden Design is a new venture for me, it’s been a nearly 20-year journey getting here.  Over the years, I’ve designed a lot of interesting places, from intimate gardens to parks, streetscapes, and plazas.  Each project has helped define my sense of  purpose as a landscape architect and has honed my design sensibilities.  And now, I find myself knowing precisly what I want to be doing.  I want to work with people who are ready to move from the usual toward the unexpected, who want their outdoor spaces to reflect their ecological ideals and their personalities, and who want to surround themselves with artistic, sustainable, life-giving beauty.  The crazy economy is already giving us a nudge (a shove?) in a less-consumptive direction.  I’m going to run with that.

Posted in New Projects | Tagged , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Visit me on Facebook

I have recently started my Facebook fanpage. If you would like updates on garden tips and before and after photos of gardens being transformed, please follow my Facebook Fan page.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Eve Werner’s Linked In Profile

I am looking forward to meeting individuals who want to transform their gardens in the Chico, CA area. You can connect with me through LinkedIn or forward my profile to others.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments